How to Make a Bezel
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The Unofficial Silversmithing Guide: How to Make a Bezel
Bezel setting is one of the foundational techniques in silversmithing, and mastering it can elevate your jewelry-making skills. Here’s a step-by-step guide based on my process.
Step 1: Choose the Right Bezel Wire
Selecting the appropriate bezel wire is crucial. For this project:
• Material: Use fine silver rather than sterling silver. Fine silver is easier to manipulate and does not harden when heated.
• Height: Ensure the bezel wire matches the height of your stone. It should be tall enough to hold the stone securely but not so tall that it overwhelms the design.
Step 2: Fit the Bezel Wire
Wrap the bezel wire snugly around your stone to achieve a precise fit:
• Tips for Success: Ensure the ends of the bezel wire are flush and clean. Any gaps or dirt can prevent proper solder flow.
• Attention to Detail: Cleanliness is critical. Dirt, oils, or dust will interfere with soldering. Keep your workspace tidy for the best results.
Step 3: Prepare the Solder
Use 22-gauge wire solder for versatility. This allows you to use it as stick solder or cut it into small chips.
• Type of Solder: Always use hard solder for bezels. This ensures a strong and durable bond.
• Pro Tip: Make a batch of solder chips in advance. These small pieces are easier to work with during soldering.
Step 4: Flux and Solder the Seam
To solder the bezel:
1. Apply flux to the seam where the ends of the bezel wire meet. This helps the solder flow smoothly.
2. Place a solder chip underneath the seam.
3. Heat the silver evenly with a torch, allowing the solder to flow through capillary action and create a seamless joint.
Step 5: Quench and File
After soldering, quench the bezel in cool water. Inspect for excess solder:
• Clean-Up: Use a file to smooth out any extra solder on the join, ensuring a professional finish.
Final Thoughts
By following these steps, you’ll create a bezel that’s not only functional but also visually appealing. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned silversmith, mastering this technique opens the door to countless design possibilities.